I went along with some industry colleagues and clients to visit Land Securities newest prestige project. One New Square boasts 214,200 sq ft dedicated to Retail, equating to 61% of the total space. Anchor stores are notably a Topshop and a Marks & Spencer; other retailers include the usual crowd. The Food offer comprises the likes of Byron (one to watch concept), Café Concerto, Nando’s (of course) and many more. Gordon Ramsay is expected to open early next year, interestingly situated directly opposite Barbacoa.
What an anticipation
Adam, a classically French-trained chef and co-owner of New Yorks highly acclaimed Daisy May’s BBQ has finally arrived in London. Barbacoa was hailed as the celebration of the special relationship food has with fire, charcoal, wood and smoke. Our anticipation was accordingly high.
Although the interior was aesthetically pleasing, also a proof that any interior designer should be forced to work a week on the floor as a waiter before being allowed to get on the drawing board. We were given one of the ‘cage’ like tables with a prominent view over the shopping mall and what was left to see of St Paul’s Cathedral, as the Iron bars of the cage style tables obstructed what could have been a real eye candy. Completely enclosed by the Iron bars, it was impossible for serving staff to provide an unobtrusive service. So we spend our lunch toping up our own glasses and standing up if one needed to go to the toilet. What we came for: The real star of the show
The food menu was a small collection sharing platter, a few starters and a "serve all, please all" collection of Burger, Pork belly or Lamb chops style dishes for main course.
Trying to understand what a burger was doing on the menu I came to different conclusions; Firstly it’s a ‘must have’ if you cater for a city crowd; secondly chefs love it because it’s a good way to get rid of all the meat scraps in the fridge you otherwise don’t know what to do with; thirdly, even if you use prime cuts for the burger meet it will give you a decent profit margin; and last, the chef actually thinks that a burger is a culinary achievement worth putting on the menu.
Whatever the reason, I was rather temped by dishes that required real skill, such as the crispy Pork cheeks or the slow cooked short rib of beef, which were too few on the menu in my opinion. My anticipations were maybe too high considering the kitchen is equipped with a wood fired oven, Japanese robata grill, Texan smokers and Indian Tandoor ovens.To be fair, from an operational point of view, it is advisable to take it easy on the beginning with a new kitchen brigade. You can’t put a chef on the stove and expect him/ her to function from day one. A kitchen brigade is an orchestra and the Head Chef is the Conductor. It takes time and bloody hard work to get a brigade to play in tune.
Throughout the meal we shared a variety of dishes. Some were a hit, others a miss. We had a good start with an impressive selection of bread gorgeously arranged. I was particularly curious about the Pumpernickel, having lived in Germany for quit a while. Adam’s version is miles away from the original; however, absolutely delicious. The next dishes that arrived were also promising; the pork scratchings were served with a deliciously nutty, exotic flavoured sauce; the crispy pork cheeks were also really good. However, the TGR Friday style baby ribs were dry, had barely any meat on it and rather a disappointment. Don’t tell me that ribs are like that, I had ribs before.
We also had mixed feelings with the main courses. The pork belly would have been impressive in a decent gastro pub and the lamb cutlets arrived overcooked. However, the short rib of beef and the double thick pork cutlets were absolutely divine. In particular the pork cutlet was a real treat. Crispy and smoky on the outside, juicy and pink on the inside. The variety of side dishes we had been simple, but well made: crunchy sprouting broccoli, mashed potatoes and creamed spinach.
I don’t like working here and I am glad when I have gone
One of my fellow diners asked jokingly a server if she enjoyed working here. The honest answer we received was shockingly bemusing. This brings me back to my College times where we learned that functioning groups go through 4 stages before they function as a Team: 1. Forming, 2. Storming, 3. Norming and 4. Performing. I guess the heat is on and there might be some ugly things going on behind the scenes.
Taking pride of working in London’s most anticipated Restaurant is one thing, the arrogant and snobby reception we received, when we entered the unit, was a different matter.
Call me old-fashioned, but I like eye contact during a conversation, I don’t like to be interrupted while I have something to say, and I don’t like to be told what I can and can’t do during my visit. Rather than to be told than I can’t go to my table at the moment, I would have preferred an explanation why and an apology that the reserved table wasn’t ready on time. The constant talking into the walkie talkie was annoying and should not be done during conversations with guests.
To be told that we have to vacate the table after 2 hours is sadly a common practice in London, where rents are high and the turnover of tables are crucial. To be told that we have to vacate the table with a half empty restaurant is silly.
We passed an army of staff on the way to our table, which was understandable considering that the Restaurant has an impressive 200 seats. Regardless of the level of trade, the resources have to be in place to cater for an operation trading at capacity.
Newly opened venues also tend to overstaff at the beginning as a significant proportion leaves again within a short period. In the industry we call this ‘natural wastage’. During our visit we had at least 4 different staff approaching our table and the service was straight forward and pretty much according to hand book. Nevertheless, service was friendly and efficient and apart from a cocky receptionist we had overall a good time.
Go or no Go?
An efficient and well oiled service needs good waiters, dedicated managers and ongoing training. This can’t be achieved over night and I therefore have restrained myself to base my opinion on the service I experienced that day. Overall, I would give Jamie and Adam some more time to get things running smoothly. Barbacoa has certainly some teething problems, but also great potential to become one of London’s must go places.
In the unlikely case that Jamie ever reads my blogg: Jamie get rid of those silly cage style tables and ask your front of house managers to hide their walkie talkies.
