Grown up was promised and Grown up it was

I was reading the following line in an article this Saturday within an industry publication: “Giraffe to launch a new restaurant in Soho”. Hardly ‘surprising’ news they opening another unit, because this is what Restaurant chains do all the time. Hardly ‘exiting’ news either as Giraffe is not only well established in London, but also starting to become a household name all over the UK. However, then came the bit when it started to become interesting: The Bar & Grill Restaurant in Frith Street was “designed to appeal more to the late-night market”.  

That was quite a U-turn for a family friendly concept. More and more branded operators appear to start to design different concept formats according to a specific market they operate, rather than expanding with the ‘one size fits all’ approach. We are seeing them doing little design tweaks, but the product remains usually pretty much the same. However, a family friendly concept targeting a late-night market wouldn’t get away that easily. My first question was how a family friendly concept intended to appeal to a more late night market? The next line grabbed my attention. “The company, which has traditionally been associated with family-friendly venues, said this was the latest grown-up addition to its estate.” But the next bit was when I really started to get excited. The menu had been apparently expanded and tailored to a more adult market.  Adobo marinated sirloin steaks, West Devon lamb rumps and beef short ribs would make a feature on the menu thanks to a fancy Japanese ‘Robata’ Grill in the kitchen. Hardly ‘innovative’, but when used properly these devices turn out gorgeous slabs of meat. 

Giraffe’s 44^th addition to the chain and 1^st Bar & Grill concept was due to open today!!!!  Would it be worthwhile to try to book a table on the opening day? I rang them up and luckily my wife and I got squeezed in at 11 at night. Not my usual dinner time, but curiosity got the better of me. Located close to my two Soho favourites, Mooli’s and Barrafina, the place was relatively easy to find. Garnished with a sleek black signage and an open frontage, this 175 covers monster is very much the alpha male in its territory.

A grown up concept was promised and grown up it was. The restaurant was designed by the company’s founder Russel Joffe himself, with a helping hand from architects Wells Mackereth, the magicians behind the iconic Smiths of Smithfield.

Raw concrete, galvanized steel and London Underground style tiling provided an appropriate setting and the absence of screaming toddlers promised the start of a good evening. The menu is small and featured many Giraffe classics; such as the Thai Duck stir-fry. However, this place also boosts a reasonable 36 bins wine list, an interesting cocktail list and a small (but fine) Meat section. You will find the usual Rib, Sirloin and Rump steaks. Vegetarian or lighter options are also available if you not into red meat. 

Mr Joffe has decided to stick to its tested and approved formula of relaxed and informal service. Our waitress Gosia, occasionally sat with us on the table whilst advising on the menu and another fella put his hands on my shoulder whilst explaining the cocktail list. Under different circumstances I wouldn’t be particularly amused, but in this scenery it just fit. Although an army of staff was hushing through the Restaurant, thankfully we were looked after the whole evening by the same two faces and what a marvellous job they did. 

As much as I like the food in Giraffe, the ‘too global food for my taste’ menu inevitably cause in me a more acute state of indecisiveness as the current Greek Government is in. Gosia happily provided us with recommendations and we eventually ended up ordering way more than we intended. Instead of my usual beer-steak combo I was seduced by Gosia to try a ‘Soho Bourbon Blues’ (£5.95) and my wife tried an alcohol free ‘Hippy Hippy Shake’ (3.65). For main course we decided on a 400 g!! Rib Eye Steak (£18.95) to share with a side of Mac & Cheese (£3.95) and salad (£2.25). A subtle and indicative suggestion was made for an appetizer whilst waiting for our main course and a mouth-watering description on some of the option was provided. Unable to decline we ended up with a Sonny Boy (£6.50); a flatbread topped with spicy chipotle shrimps, grilled pineapple, Feta cheese and roasted peppers. Exactly the kind of weird mixture I am not keen of trying, but eventually glad I did. 

Our massive chunk of beef arrived shortly after and was heavenly juice.  Our empty plates were swiftly cleared and Gosia returned shortly after again with a big smile and dessert menus.  Our stomachs were full, but our will was weak and so we decided to finish our evening with a grilled pineapple with coconut ice cream. We loved the 1970’s presentation and it was the nice finish for a great meal. Hot and slightly charred pineapple with creamy and cooling coconut ice-cream topped with toasted coconut.  Our bill was less than £60 for two, which was excellent value considering the Central London location, quality produce and great service. This place ticks all the right boxes to become a winner and one to watch out for.